mirror of
https://github.com/Theaninova/Brick-Monorail.git
synced 2025-12-12 12:46:13 +00:00
109 lines
4.8 KiB
Markdown
109 lines
4.8 KiB
Markdown
# Brick Monorail
|
|
|
|
Parametric Lego-compatible monorail tracks, designed specifically for 3d printing.
|
|
Orders of magnitude cheaper than buying used.
|
|
|
|
You can also generate your own custom rails with any radius, length, or if you feel bold, even splines.
|
|
|
|
| Preset | Material Cost | Time | Image |
|
|
| ------ | ------------- | ---- | ------------------------------------------------------ |
|
|
| C15 | tbd | tbd | <img alt="C15" src="./assets/solid/C15.svg" width=150> |
|
|
| C7 | tbd | tbd | <img alt="C7" src="./assets/solid/C7.svg" width=150> |
|
|
| S25 | tbd | tbd | (todo) |
|
|
| S10 | tbd | tbd | <img alt="S10" src="./assets/solid/S10.svg" width=150> |
|
|
| S5 | ~12ct | ~25m | <img alt="S5" src="./assets/solid/S5.svg" width=150> |
|
|
| S4 | tbd | tbd | <img alt="S4" src="./assets/solid/S4.svg" width=150> |
|
|
|
|
Todo: ramps, switches, train assembly
|
|
|
|
## Design Options
|
|
|
|
For now, I also use non-baseplate aligned joints for curves. While this means you can't just snap the rails
|
|
on a baseplate, it enables you to use straight rails at non-90 degree angles which I think is an absolute
|
|
win over the original design since the 45 degree curves are useless outside of joining them with switches.
|
|
|
|
### Solid (preferred)
|
|
|
|
<div style="display: flex">
|
|
<img alt="C15" src="./assets/solid/C15.svg" width="300">
|
|
<img alt="Standoff" src="./assets/standoff.svg" width="150">
|
|
</div>
|
|
|
|
This one is **optimized for 3D printing**, with the rail solid and flush to the bed.
|
|
|
|
**Requires additional pieces per rail:**
|
|
|
|
- **2x printed standoff**, these are inserted into the bottom, and need to be fixated there (glue, melting).
|
|
If you don't use any original Monorail tracks you can also simply place a 2x2 plate there (this changes the height).
|
|
- **8x 4274 technic pin with stud**, because side studs print notoriously bad.
|
|
This version comes with technic pin holes instead.
|
|
|
|
### Classic
|
|
|
|
<img alt="C15" src="./assets/classic/C15.svg" width="300">
|
|
|
|
Uses the classic design, very close to the injection moulded parts.
|
|
|
|
**PETG/PVA support interface is mandatory to get decent results.**
|
|
|
|
## Operating on R25 instead of R28
|
|
|
|
What difference do these three studs make?
|
|
With this radius we can take advantage of the pythagorean triples `3/4/5` and `7/24/25` to stay on the stud
|
|
grid with turntables.
|
|
|
|
- Curve C15
|
|
- Curve C7
|
|
- Straight S25
|
|
- Straight S10
|
|
- Straight S5
|
|
- Straight S4
|
|
|
|
How it fits
|
|
|
|
- Two C15 and one C7 make exactly a 90 degree turn, where every part stays on the stud grid.
|
|
- An s-curve with C15 moves over 20 studs, diagonals can be done with any length divisible by 5
|
|
- An s-curve with C7 moves two studs, but diagonals require a full S25 to land cleanly again.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
## Printing
|
|
|
|
To be compatible with standard bricks, the following print settings are strongly advised
|
|
|
|
- Nozzle: **0.4**, this is equivalent to 1 LDU.
|
|
- Layer height: **0.2**, less than that is barely better and just causes more problems than it solves.
|
|
If you want to go lower, it's advisable to use heights that satisfy `0.4 % h == 0` such as 0.1.
|
|
- **Make sure your initial layer height is either 0.2 or 0.4!**
|
|
- Supports: **none**, unless you use the classic option
|
|
- **Make sure you have your flow and z offset calibrated perfectly.**
|
|
These parts have very small tolerances, it is absolutely vital you have this right
|
|
or you will end up with parts that have insufficient or too high clamping force.
|
|
|
|
I print on a modified Voron 2.4 with toolchanger capability through Stealthchanger.
|
|
|
|
### Filament
|
|
|
|
| Color | RAL | PLA Supplier | ABS Supplier |
|
|
| ----------------- | ---------- | ---------------------- | ------------ |
|
|
| Light Bluish Gray | `RAL 7040` | dasfilament, Prusament | |
|
|
| Light Gray | `RAL 7005` | | |
|
|
|
|
- None of these colors will be an exact match, just the texture of 3d printing it can make a huge difference, but usually fall close enough in the range.
|
|
- The original rails will be in _Light Gray_, not _Light Bluish Gray_, but since I barely own any pre- 2004 color change bricks I chose to match my other bricks instead.
|
|
|
|
_Notes for newcomers:_
|
|
|
|
- Most bricks are injection molded from ABS, however I find PLA to be much more easy and safe to handle.
|
|
- PLA starts to deform at 60°C, so don't leave it in the sun or in your car.
|
|
- PLA is brittle. While ABS deforms with force applied to it, PLA will just snap.
|
|
- ABS is harder to print, an enclosure is a must, and warping can be difficult to handle.
|
|
|
|
#### Printing Safety
|
|
|
|
In case you are new to 3D printing:
|
|
|
|
- Most filaments (including PLA) can release toxic gases when _burned_
|
|
- FDM printing can cause fine particle emission
|
|
- ABS when heated to normal printing temperatures can release styrene fumes
|