Theaninova/Brick-Monorail
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# Brick Monorail
Parametric Lego-compatible monorail tracks, designed specifically for 3d printing.
Two orders of magnitude cheaper than buying used.
Orders of magnitude cheaper than buying used.
Since the parts are made parametric, you can have any length or curve radius you want,
but these are the original tracks you can replicate
You can also generate your own custom rails with any radius, length, or if you feel bold, even splines.
As an overview, or why it's worth a try: They print rapidly on modern printers, and cost barely anything.
| Preset | Cost | Time | Image |
| ----------------------------- | ----- | ---- | -------------------------------- |
| C15 | ~10ct | tbd | ![C15](./assets/classic/C15.svg) |
| C7 | ~5ct | tbd | ![C7](./assets/classic/C7.svg) |
| S25 | ~12ct | tbd | (todo) |
| S10 | ~5ct | tbd | ![S10](./assets/classic/S10.svg) |
| S5 | ~5ct | tbd | ![S5](./assets/classic/S5.svg) |
| S4 | ~5ct | tbd | (todo) |
| Classic Full Curve (R28 90°) | ~25ct | tbd | (todo) |
| Classic Half Curve (R28 45°) | ~12ct | tbd | (todo) |
| Classic Full Straight (L32) | ~20ct | tbd | (todo) |
| Classic Half Straight (L16) | ~10ct | tbd | (todo) |
| Classic Quarter Straight (L8) | ~5ct | tbd | (todo) |
You can also generate your own custom rails with any length, radius or angle.
| Preset | Material Cost | Time | Image |
| ------ | ------------- | ---- | ------------------------------------------------------ |
| C15 | tbd | tbd | <img alt="C15" src="./assets/solid/C15.svg" width=150> |
| C7 | tbd | tbd | <img alt="C7" src="./assets/solid/C7.svg" width=150> |
| S25 | tbd | tbd | (todo) |
| S10 | tbd | tbd | <img alt="S10" src="./assets/solid/S10.svg" width=150> |
| S5 | ~12ct | ~25m | <img alt="S5" src="./assets/solid/S5.svg" width=150> |
| S4 | tbd | tbd | <img alt="S4" src="./assets/solid/S4.svg" width=150> |
Todo: ramps, switches, train assembly
@@ -32,32 +22,29 @@ For now, I also use non-baseplate aligned joints for curves. While this means yo
on a baseplate, it enables you to use straight rails at non-90 degree angles which I think is an absolute
win over the original design since the 45 degree curves are useless outside of joining them with switches.
### Solid (preferred)
<div style="display: flex">
<img alt="C15" src="./assets/solid/C15.svg" width="300">
<img alt="Standoff" src="./assets/standoff.svg" width="150">
</div>
This one is **optimized for 3D printing**, with the rail solid and flush to the bed.
**Requires additional pieces per rail:**
- **2x printed standoff**, these are inserted into the bottom, and need to be fixated there (glue, melting).
If you don't use any original Monorail tracks you can also simply place a 2x2 plate there (this changes the height).
- **8x 4274 technic pin with stud**, because side studs print notoriously bad.
This version comes with technic pin holes instead.
### Classic
**PETG/PVA support interface is mandatory to get satisfactory results**
<img alt="C15" src="./assets/classic/C15.svg" width="300">
![C15](./assets/classic/C15.svg)
Uses the classic design, very close to the injection moulded parts.
Uses the classic shell design from the injection moulded parts.
PETG/PVA supports are a must if you want the part to come out clean!
There's also an option that makes the side studs solid.
### Solid
![C15](./assets/solid/C15.svg)
![Standoff](./assets/standoff.svg)
This one is optimized for 3D printing, with the rail solid and flush to the bed.
Prints entirely supportless.
Requires additional pieces per rail:
- 2x printed standoff, these are inserted into the bottom, and need to be fixated there (glue, melting).
If you don't use any original Monorail tracks you can also simply place a 2x2 plate there (this changes the height).
- 8x 4274 (technic pin with stud)
Prints a _lot_ faster than the classic option.
**PETG/PVA support interface is mandatory to get decent results.**
## Operating on R25 instead of R28
@@ -88,9 +75,7 @@ To be compatible with standard bricks, the following print settings are strongly
- Layer height: **0.2**, less than that is barely better and just causes more problems than it solves.
If you want to go lower, it's advisable to use heights that satisfy `0.4 % h == 0` such as 0.1.
- **Make sure your initial layer height is either 0.2 or 0.4!**
- Supports: **yes**, normal, don't use tree supports.
- Multi-material is highly recommended: use PETG or PVA as a support interface layer.
This is the only way to get these parts to print cleanly.
- Supports: **none**, unless you use the classic option
- **Make sure you have your flow and z offset calibrated perfectly.**
These parts have very small tolerances, it is absolutely vital you have this right
or you will end up with parts that have insufficient or too high clamping force.