diff --git a/README.md b/README.md index e3439eb..cd0f187 100644 --- a/README.md +++ b/README.md @@ -1,28 +1,18 @@ # Brick Monorail Parametric Lego-compatible monorail tracks, designed specifically for 3d printing. -Two orders of magnitude cheaper than buying used. +Orders of magnitude cheaper than buying used. -Since the parts are made parametric, you can have any length or curve radius you want, -but these are the original tracks you can replicate +You can also generate your own custom rails with any radius, length, or if you feel bold, even splines. -As an overview, or why it's worth a try: They print rapidly on modern printers, and cost barely anything. - -| Preset | Cost | Time | Image | -| ----------------------------- | ----- | ---- | -------------------------------- | -| C15 | ~10ct | tbd | ![C15](./assets/classic/C15.svg) | -| C7 | ~5ct | tbd | ![C7](./assets/classic/C7.svg) | -| S25 | ~12ct | tbd | (todo) | -| S10 | ~5ct | tbd | ![S10](./assets/classic/S10.svg) | -| S5 | ~5ct | tbd | ![S5](./assets/classic/S5.svg) | -| S4 | ~5ct | tbd | (todo) | -| Classic Full Curve (R28 90°) | ~25ct | tbd | (todo) | -| Classic Half Curve (R28 45°) | ~12ct | tbd | (todo) | -| Classic Full Straight (L32) | ~20ct | tbd | (todo) | -| Classic Half Straight (L16) | ~10ct | tbd | (todo) | -| Classic Quarter Straight (L8) | ~5ct | tbd | (todo) | - -You can also generate your own custom rails with any length, radius or angle. +| Preset | Material Cost | Time | Image | +| ------ | ------------- | ---- | ------------------------------------------------------ | +| C15 | tbd | tbd | C15 | +| C7 | tbd | tbd | C7 | +| S25 | tbd | tbd | (todo) | +| S10 | tbd | tbd | S10 | +| S5 | ~12ct | ~25m | S5 | +| S4 | tbd | tbd | S4 | Todo: ramps, switches, train assembly @@ -32,32 +22,29 @@ For now, I also use non-baseplate aligned joints for curves. While this means yo on a baseplate, it enables you to use straight rails at non-90 degree angles which I think is an absolute win over the original design since the 45 degree curves are useless outside of joining them with switches. +### Solid (preferred) + +
+C15 +Standoff +
+ +This one is **optimized for 3D printing**, with the rail solid and flush to the bed. + +**Requires additional pieces per rail:** + +- **2x printed standoff**, these are inserted into the bottom, and need to be fixated there (glue, melting). + If you don't use any original Monorail tracks you can also simply place a 2x2 plate there (this changes the height). +- **8x 4274 technic pin with stud**, because side studs print notoriously bad. + This version comes with technic pin holes instead. + ### Classic -**PETG/PVA support interface is mandatory to get satisfactory results** +C15 -![C15](./assets/classic/C15.svg) +Uses the classic design, very close to the injection moulded parts. -Uses the classic shell design from the injection moulded parts. -PETG/PVA supports are a must if you want the part to come out clean! - -There's also an option that makes the side studs solid. - -### Solid - -![C15](./assets/solid/C15.svg) -![Standoff](./assets/standoff.svg) - -This one is optimized for 3D printing, with the rail solid and flush to the bed. -Prints entirely supportless. - -Requires additional pieces per rail: - -- 2x printed standoff, these are inserted into the bottom, and need to be fixated there (glue, melting). - If you don't use any original Monorail tracks you can also simply place a 2x2 plate there (this changes the height). -- 8x 4274 (technic pin with stud) - -Prints a _lot_ faster than the classic option. +**PETG/PVA support interface is mandatory to get decent results.** ## Operating on R25 instead of R28 @@ -88,9 +75,7 @@ To be compatible with standard bricks, the following print settings are strongly - Layer height: **0.2**, less than that is barely better and just causes more problems than it solves. If you want to go lower, it's advisable to use heights that satisfy `0.4 % h == 0` such as 0.1. - **Make sure your initial layer height is either 0.2 or 0.4!** -- Supports: **yes**, normal, don't use tree supports. - - Multi-material is highly recommended: use PETG or PVA as a support interface layer. - This is the only way to get these parts to print cleanly. +- Supports: **none**, unless you use the classic option - **Make sure you have your flow and z offset calibrated perfectly.** These parts have very small tolerances, it is absolutely vital you have this right or you will end up with parts that have insufficient or too high clamping force.