diff --git a/README.md b/README.md index da39c6f..bfbfc9b 100644 --- a/README.md +++ b/README.md @@ -5,14 +5,14 @@ Orders of magnitude cheaper than buying used. You can also generate your own custom rails with any radius, length, or if you feel bold, even splines. -| Preset | Material Cost | Time | Solid | Classic | -| ------ | ------------- | ---- | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ | ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | -| C15 | tbd | tbd | | | -| C7 | tbd | tbd | | | -| S25 | tbd | tbd | (todo) | (todo) | -| S10 | tbd | tbd | | | -| S5 | ~12ct | ~25m | | | -| S4 | tbd | tbd | | (broken) | +| Preset | Material Cost | Time | Solid | Classic | +| ------ | ------------- | ---- | ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | +| C15 | tbd | tbd | | | +| C7 | tbd | tbd | | | +| S25 | tbd | tbd | (todo) | (todo) | +| S10 | tbd | tbd | | | +| S5 | ~12ct | ~25m | | | +| S4 | tbd | tbd | | (broken) | Todo: ramps, switches, train assembly @@ -22,14 +22,40 @@ For now, I also use non-baseplate aligned joints for curves. While this means yo on a baseplate, it enables you to use straight rails at non-90 degree angles which I think is an absolute win over the original design since the 45 degree curves are useless outside of joining them with switches. -### Solid (preferred) +### Solid/Support (preferred) + +
+C15 +Standoff +
+ +This one is **optimized for 3D printing**, with a single reusable support piece that is inserted about 5 minutes into the print. + +**Requires additional pieces for 3D printing:** + +- **1x printed PETG support**. PETG does not stick to PLA, so it is vital you print this part in PETG. + - Enable ironing for a nice bottom rail finish + - **Wait until the bed has cooled down.** + If you remove the thin support piece while the bed is still hot you can permanently bend the part. + - Before you start the print, **place the PETG support piece on the heated bed** with the ironed top face down. + Leave it there until you insert it, this improves how well the next layer sticks to the support piece + and prevents unwanted additional thermal expansion mid print. + - When you slice the main rail, look for the layer where it prints mid-air and **add a pause.** + In Orca Slicer you can do that by right clicking on the layer slider on the right. + - About 5 minutes into the print (depending on your printer) your printer will pause. + Take the support piece and place it so that the next layer will be laid down on the ironed top face. + The piece should slide in with little to no resistance and barely move at all. +- **8x 4274 technic pin with stud**, because side studs print notoriously bad. + This version comes with technic pin holes instead. + +### Solid
C15 Standoff
-This one is **optimized for 3D printing**, with the rail solid and flush to the bed. +This one is **optimized for 3D printing**, with the rail solid and flush to the bed and inserts that are printed separately. **Requires additional pieces per rail:**